Mumbai: Edelweiss Mutual Fund MD and CEO Radhika Gupta has sharply criticised French luxury fashion house Dior for failing to acknowledge the Indian artisans behind a $200,000 coat embellished with traditional Lucknowi mukaish embroidery.

Taking to the social media platform X on Sunday, Gupta wrote, “Dior sells a $200K coat using Lucknowi mukaish embroidery. 12 Indian artisans. 34 days of work. No credit. No context. No mention of India.” She added, “The world loves Indian craftsmanship — but rarely credits the craftspeople. And rarely shares the value. Because the branding, storytelling, and pricing power stay elsewhere. The hand that creates remains invisible.”

Gupta's remarks follow an NDTV report highlighting Dior’s use of the intricate metallic-thread embroidery from Lucknow in its latest collection. The gold and ivory coat — part of creative director Jonathan Anderson’s debut line for Dior — was showcased at a grand event in Paris on June 27, 2025, attended by global celebrities like Robert Pattinson, Rihanna, and Daniel Craig.

Calling for a “cultural reset” in how India presents its heritage industries globally, Gupta said: “Culture is soft power. Japan did it with design. Korea did it with pop culture. India must do it with craft. From sourcing destination to storytelling nation. A home of global brands. The lion has to come out. And roar.”

The issue was first flagged by fashion commentator Hanan Besnovic, known for his Instagram handle @ideservecouture. In a widely circulated video, Besnovic explained, “Why is it a $200K coat? Well… the embroidery you see on this coat is made using the traditional mukaish technique. This is a traditional Indian hand embroidery technique.” He revealed that 12 artisans spent 34 days crafting the garment — a fact entirely omitted from Dior’s official communications.

The backlash against Dior echoes a similar controversy involving luxury brand Prada, which earlier this year unveiled leather sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals without any reference to their Indian roots. Prada later issued a clarification acknowledging that the designs were “inspired by the Indian handcrafted footwear from the Maharashtra and Karnataka region.”

The repeated oversight by global fashion houses has sparked growing calls for recognition, fair representation, and ethical crediting of traditional Indian artisans whose craftsmanship often lies at the heart of luxury design.