Havana, Cuba: Havana's iconic Coppelia ice cream parlor, a beloved institution since 1966, has reopened its doors after a three-month hiatus. The parlor is offering new flavors, but rising prices may make it harder for locals to enjoy, despite a 60 percent government subsidy. With an average monthly salary of just over $40 in Cuba, many fear that the updated prices will freeze out regular customers.
Coppelia, a massive ice cream parlor with the capacity to serve 547 patrons, became a symbol of Cuban culture after being featured in the 1993 film Strawberry and Chocolate, the first Cuban film nominated for an Oscar. Since its opening, it has been a go-to spot for both locals and tourists seeking a sweet treat in a country with a long-standing love for ice cream. The shop was a project initiated by Fidel Castro, who was determined to offer the best ice cream despite the US trade embargo.
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While Coppelia has endured many challenges over the years, its struggles have deepened in recent years due to Cuba's ongoing economic crisis. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union in the 1990s, the parlor saw its offerings decline. In recent years, skyrocketing production costs, particularly due to rising agricultural prices, have put a strain on the business. Moreover, the recent emergence of private ice cream parlours, allowed after a 2021 government policy shift, has intensified competition.
In November, Coppelia closed temporarily, frustrating many loyal customers. By the time it closed, only one ice cream flavor was available. Manager Jose Antonio Gonzalez explained that the closure was necessary to adjust the pricing structure, not due to a shortage of ice cream.
Mixed reception to reopening
When Coppelia reopened on February 5, it offered eight flavours, a significant improvement from the one flavour previously available. While many were excited to see the parlor back in business, not all reactions were positive. "With this increase in prices, I don't think that the average Havanan will be able to go as regularly as they did before," said Mijail Morales, a 47-year-old Havana resident. Additionally, some customers noted that the ice cream no longer tasted as it had in previous years.
Private ice cream shops like Sabor Cid, located near Coppelia, have also faced difficulties due to high prices. Erena Cobo, a state employee, praised the offerings at Sabor Cid but remarked that at over USD 3 for a single scoop, it was too expensive for most. The co-owner of Sabor Cid, Jhendry Garcia, explained that the high prices were a result of import costs and a fluctuating foreign exchange rate.
Despite the price increases, Coppelia remains confident in its position as the dominant ice cream parlor in Havana. Gonzalez highlighted its size, subsidised pricing, and central location, noting that private shops will have difficulty competing with the iconic parlor. "It's not called the Cathedral of Ice Cream for nothing!" he said.
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Published: 20 Feb 2025, 12:04 pm IST
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