Designer Sreejith Jeevan, founder and creative head of the Kerala-based label Rouka by Sreejith Jeevan, recently addressed the ongoing issue of creative duplication within the Indian fashion industry. In a video posted to Instagram on July 31, he highlighted the struggles faced by independent designers, ranging from outright copying to subtler forms of imitation that compromise originality.

In the video, Sreejith recalled how he started launching rooted designs for Onam in 2015, some of which became very popular. One such series, called ‘Maala’, was inspired by traditional jewellery such as the naagapadam, and another named ‘Dashapushpam’ was based on the ten medicinal herbs Malayalis rely on during the month of Karkkidakam, which typically falls in July or August.

Call to speak up after repeated imitation

Interestingly, Sreejith noted that over time, several boutiques and brands started adopting these designs for their Onam collection, even when it did not align with their own established brand identity.

Though he had noticed this trend, Sreejith had consoled himself thinking that it meant Rouka had become the ‘Pinterest for Onam’, and that, besides, imitation is the highest form of flattery. Having worked with the Chendamangalam weavers, another comforting thought for the designer was that these imitations perhaps helped the weavers and the industry in one way or another. He would even claim credit “for killing the mural” since it was Rouka which made it popular for people to wear flowers on the kasavu, introducing quirky stripes and other innovative designs, all while staying rooted in Kerala culture.

 

However, when he asked the people who used to message his inbox about these ‘influenced’ or ‘inspired’ creations to call out these brands, people were hesitant since they were friends with the imitators, or intimidated by the large number of followers. Sreejith also realised the tremendous amount of time and resources required to pursue a court case, which was impractical even for him.

Rouka’s designs allegedly copied by popular saree brand

While Sreejith refrained from naming anyone directly in his video, he reshared a series of Instagram stories from supporters who tagged Suta—a well-known saree brand—and posted screenshots comparing a Rouka ivory saree with red floral appliqué to a near-identical piece being sold by Suta.

The designer bravely spoke out after encountering an exact replica of Rouka’s Chembarathi saree named ‘Adorn’, which was neither influenced nor inspired. What followed was a wave of support through comments, stories, and personal messages under the Instagram video.

Support from longtime friends and industry observers

The caption read, “I thought I’ll put it out here because now I’m convinced, silence isn’t golden anymore. A big big thank you to everyone who stood by me yesterday! You are the wind under my wings!” reflecting the designer’s deep sense of gratitude.

He also responded to messages from longtime acquaintances and supporters, which underlined the originality of Rouka's designs and called out the "plain rip-off".

The brand in question responds

According to a report by the Hindustan Times Digital, the brand expressed regret for the "misunderstanding" regarding the design, which was inspired by a reference they didn't realise belonged to another brand. The official statement further stated that it was never Suta's intention to replicate or misrepresent and that they had made changes to the design once they realized the resemblance to ensure it stood apart.

About Rouka

Meaning ‘bodice’ in Malayalam and ‘corridor’ in Japanese according to the brand’s website, Rouka calls itself “clothing that bridges the wearer and the weaver.” Founded in Kochi in 2014, Rouka had debuted at the Lakme Fashion Week, and also worked with traditional handloom weavers post the Kerala floods on an exclusive collection. Sreejith is a graduate from the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, and the Ecole Nationale Superieure Des Arts Decoratifs, Paris. Celebrities including Vidya Balan, Kani Kusruti, Tillotama Shome, and Parvathy Thiruvothu have endorsed Rouka over the years.

A broader industry concern

Sreejith’s remarks have resonated with many in the design community, highlighting an ongoing concern among independent creators who often see their work appropriated without credit. Recently, global brands like Prada, Dior, Birkenstocks, and Crocs have been in the news for alleged copyright violations.