Varanasi’s ‘Masane Ki Holi’ celebrated with Pyre Ash at Harishchandra Ghat

Amid chants of “Har Har Mahadev” and the rhythmic beats of the damru, thousands of devotees gathered at Harishchandra Ghat in Varanasi on Friday to observe the unique and controversial ritual of ‘Masane Ki Holi’.

Unlike the conventional festival of colours, this centuries-old practice involves devotees smearing ashes from funeral pyres at the cremation grounds, symbolising detachment and the transient nature of human life. Rooted in the spiritual ethos of Kashi’s Shaivite traditions, the ritual is observed annually on Rangbhari Ekadashi, a significant day in the Hindu calendar that marks the return of Lord Shiva to Kashi after his celestial wedding.

The word “Masane” is derived from “smasan” (श्मशान), meaning cremation ground. In Shaivite belief, cremation sites are considered sacred spaces associated with Shiva, who is often depicted as the lord of ascetics and the divine master of spirits such as bhutas, pretas and pisachas – semi-divine beings believed to inhabit such grounds.

According to legend, after his marriage to Parvati in the Himalayas, Lord Shiva returned to Kashi and celebrated Holi with his devotees, including these mystical beings. Devotees believe this divine celebration gave rise to the tradition of Masane Ki Holi.

However, the ritual has not been without controversy. A local body has opposed the practice of playing Holi at cremation grounds, questioning its historical authenticity and arguing that there is no clear mention of such a tradition in Hindu scriptures.

The celebration has also drawn criticism from the Kashi Vidvat Parishad, a council of Sanskrit scholars and experts in Hindu scriptures.