Wayanad’s traditional jewellery, once worn exclusively by women of the Paniya tribal community, is finding a new audience through an Instagram initiative by Aparna. On World Tribal Day, observed on August 9, her collection under the brand name ‘Panicci’ brings the community’s distinctive ornaments and craftsmanship to a wider audience through social media.

The idea took shape from Aparna’s conversations with the women in her family and community. She recalls pointing to Cheeru Muthi’s traditional earrings and asking why nobody seemed interested in wearing such ornaments anymore.

Why is no one using our earrings and necklaces anymore?, Aparna asked.

She also touched the traditional panathali, made with sugar beads and coins, and the kalle mala, asking why these ornaments were no longer in demand. Muthi (grandmother) would respond with a hearty laugh, embrace Aparna and share the moment with her.

Preserving Paniya craftsmanship
 

Aparna is now using Instagram to introduce the world to the distinctive jewellery collection made and worn by Paniya women, including ornaments associated with her mother and Muthi.

For Aparna, the name ‘Panicci’ has a deeply personal meaning.

“I am a Panicci; that is the answer to the question of who I am. There could be no better name for my venture,” she says.

She says many among the younger generation of the Paniya community are increasingly less interested in traditional ornaments, while some no longer know how to make them.

Traditional techniques behind the ornaments

Each ornament is made using its own traditional technique. Aparna explains that even making a simple Choothumani (traditional earring) involves a careful process.

The process begins by blowing air onto embers in a traditional stove to heat the kaithola (screw pine leaf).

Once it is ready, a small quantity of beeswax is prepared and cleaned.

The kaithola is then rolled into a circular shape, coated with wax and decorated by attaching kunni kuru (rosary pea) seeds.

Traditional ornaments such as the panathali, made by stringing sugar beads and coins, kalle mala and mudechil each have their own distinct method of preparation, Aparna says.

Through Panicci, Aparna hopes to preserve these traditional designs and ensure that the jewellery and craftsmanship of Paniya women do not disappear with changing generations.