Kochi: Wayanad is gearing up to enter the global specialty coffee market with its own variety of robusta, branded as ‘Wayanadan Robusta’. The initiative is part of the Climate Smart Coffee Project by the Department of Industries.

Wayanad, the main hub of coffee cultivation in Kerala, primarily grows robusta coffee. However, there is limited production of its specialty variety, which command higher value and demand in domestic and global markets. According to G. Balagopal, lead of the Climate Smart Coffee Project, nearly 80% of Wayanad’s coffee growers are small-scale farmers who lack awareness about improving the quality of their produce. As a result, mostly second-grade Wayanad robusta is available in the market. Perceptions changed two and a half years ago when a delegation from the Netherlands evaluated the quality of the Wayanadan robusta coffee variety.

Cup score

Coffee quality is assessed through a method called “coffee cupping”, which generates a “cup score”. A score above 80 indicates “specialty coffee”. Samples of Wayanadan robusta taken to the Netherlands scored 88 and 86 respectively, proving the coffee’s unique excellence. Following this, efforts began under the Smart Coffee Project to produce more robusta of similar quality. With support from the Coffee Board, samples from 300 farmers were collected for a nominal fee and tested. However, the results ranged between 55 and 70. The higher scores in the Netherlands were due to precise post-harvest processing. Learning from this, the authorities are now planning a modern coffee processing park.

Coffee park on the cards

The proposed coffee park, spread across 20 acres in Kalpetta, aims to collect robusta coffee, process it centrally to enhance quality, and equip farmers to produce specialty coffee through training and support. The project report is being prepared with assistance from KINFRA and funding from KIIFB.

The park will also feature a start-up incubator, facilities for cupping and grading, a coffee museum, and a café. Additionally, efforts are underway to introduce a trademark called “Malabar Coffee” in the domestic market, said Science Lead Dr T.D. John.

At the 2024 Specialty Coffee Expo in Copenhagen, Denmark, Wayanadan coffee was showcased under the brand ‘Wayanad’s Indian Fine Robusta’ and received a highly positive response.

Challenges in specialty cultivation

The quality of coffee depends on every stage—from harvest to processing. Picking ripe berries during harvest and proper drying are crucial. Incorrect pruning of unhealthy or unproductive branches can affect yields. The ageing of coffee plants in Wayanad has also impacted productivity. Currently, the average yield is 0.8 tonnes per hectare. The Climate Smart Coffee Project aims to double this within five years.