Bikaner’s ‘City of a Thousand Havelis’ at risk as heritage mansions crumble

Bikaner, Rajasthan: Known as the City of a Thousand Havelis, Bikaner’s historic skyline is a living archive of merchant wealth and royal patronage. Built largely from red sandstone, these grand mansions, adorned with ornate jharokhas, delicate jaalis, carved balconies and vibrant murals, shift hues with the sun, silently narrating Rajasthan’s cultural and architectural legacy.

But time and neglect are taking a heavy toll. Many havelis have fallen into disrepair, while others have vanished altogether, replaced by modern constructions as the city evolves. Conservation experts warn that without swift, coordinated action, Bikaner risks losing a core part of its identity and a vital pillar of heritage-driven tourism.

Heritage conservation expert Dr Ritesh Vyas stresses the need for collective responsibility. He says "If these havelis are to be saved, a collective body or society of haveli owners should be established. The government should invite the haveli owners and hold discussions with them to understand the issues due to which these havelis are deteriorating, being neglected, or being sold. The first initiative should be the formation of such a body. The second step should be to explore ways to prevent further decline, so that the general public can connect with these havelis and the owners also realise how significant their properties are. While the owners may know that their havelis are important, many of them are not fully aware of how valuable these structures are from a heritage perspective."

Officials acknowledge that urgent action is required to protect the Havelis, not just in Bikaner, but across Rajasthan.

Dr Nitin Goyal, Director of the Rajasthan Institute of Oriental Studies, points out that, "The fame of these Havelis is largely due to the exquisite golden kalam work, intricate wood carvings, beautiful jaalis, and mehrabs, which make them unique in themselves. However, due to years of neglect, these havelis have been steadily deteriorating. The façades of several havelis are now on the verge of collapse. Keeping this in view, the Rajasthan government has launched a Haveli Conservation Scheme, under which 648 havelis in the Shekhawati region have been identified. These include prominent structures such as the Goenka Ji ki Haveli, Anand Lal Devda Ji ki Haveli, along with several havelis in the Fatehpur region. The effort is to preserve these havelis, which are a living symbol of our culture and represent the rich Rajasthani heritage, so that they can be safeguarded for future generations and maintained as icons of cultural heritage."

At the district level, the administration says steps are already underway. Bikaner District Collector Namrata Vrishni says, "Several steps have been taken by the municipal corporation to conserve these havelis. The first of those was the launch of a heritage walk. In addition, a heritage cell has been set up within the corporation to ensure the conservation of these heritage structures. Along the same lines, by-laws for heritage conservation are being prepared. For this purpose, expert agencies have been hired, and the process is currently underway. Once this is completed, a comprehensive framework will be in place to guide how heritage structures can be conserved. This framework will also define how, if someone wishes to renovate or make modifications to a heritage structure, it can be done in a manner that preserves its heritage value while adapting it to modern requirements.’’

At the political level as well, the importance of conserving Bikaner's dwindling legacy has been acknowledged.

According to Union Law Minister Arjun Ram Meghwal, "We have held several discussions on how the heritage of Bikaner, which is known as the City of a Thousand Havelis, can be preserved, and how tourism can be promoted. We are going to prepare a roadmap in this direction – so that the havelis remain protected and tourism activities can grow because of them."

With hundreds of havelis already lost and many more at risk, conservationists warn that the coming years will be decisive. The survival of Bikaner’s architectural legacy now depends on how effectively policies translate into on-ground action—before these silent storytellers fade into history.