Unfrogettable turquoise and brown from Louis Erard, a frog who never blinks
Somewhere along the way, most of us redraw ourselves. We chase a new look, a new voice, a new version of who we were. The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Unfrogettable suggests another path, keep the face you have earned and let your mood do the changing.
The wide-eyed regulator has never been redrawn. Case, calibre and layout stay untouched, and only the temperament changes, in two limited editions of 178 pieces each.
As Manuel Emch, CEO of Louis Erard, observes, once a character is unmistakable, colour alone can change its personality.
Also Read: Jacob & Co.'s new devout flex is called the Mahadev edition, and no, it's not subtle
Behind the frog stand two believers in independent thinking. Louis Erard has made watches in Le Noirmont, in the Swiss Jura, since 1929. Konstantin Chaykin has his own world since 2003 and holds 94 patents, more than any other living watchmaker. He made the first Russian tourbillons, and his 2021 Martian Tourbillon remains the most expensive Russian watch ever sold.
The stare comes from the regulator layout. Hours sit on a disc at 9 o'clock and seconds at 3, both acting as rotating pupils, while an arrow-shaped minute hand crosses the centre. The watch looks back at you.
Also Read: Britain's watchmakers are done playing it safe
The Grade 5 titanium case measures 40mm across, 46.50mm lug to lug and 12.45mm thick, with sapphire crystal treated on both sides and 5 bar of water resistance. Through the caseback, engraved "1 of 178", beats the Sellita SW266-1: an élaboré automatic of 11½ lines, 25.60mm wide and 5.60mm thick. It carries 31 jewels, runs at 28,800 vph and holds about 38 hours of power, wound by an openworked rotor bearing the black-lacquered Louis Erard symbol.
Turquoise (Ref. 85340AA03.BVA192) is the bright, slightly surreal self, a light grained dial, blue-green counters, minutes ring split between blue-green and violet, rhodium-treated discs and hands, and green SLN C5 lume. Violet stitching and lining lift the strap.
Brown (Ref. 85340AA04.BVA193) is the nocturnal self, a light brown base, dark brown counters, a brown and ochre ring, 5N-treated hands and discs, a PVD-coated crown, and black stitching.
Both ride on black Himeji Kurozan leather from a historic Japanese tannery, hand-rubbed, naturally tanned and finished in matte and glossy Urushi lacquer. The strap measures 20/18mm by 80/115mm, closes on a titanium pin buckle with a satin "LE" plate, and swaps easily thanks to quick-release spring bars.
Also Read: How much is a Rolex worth right now? Value, price and resale guide
Life rarely hands us such a clear lesson, identity holds steady while mood moves. Cool or warm, then? With only 178 of each, the choice belongs to those who act first.