ICW 2026: JJ Valaya’s ‘Siddi’ brings the untold story of India’s African-origin community to runway

Some histories are preserved in books. Others find their way into fabric, embroidery and silhouettes. 

At Hyundai India Couture Week 2026, JJ Valaya turned the story of the Siddis of India into the starting point for Siddi, his Autumn/Winter 2026 couture collection. Inspired by a community with African roots that gradually absorbed influences from across the Indian subcontinent, the collection explored movement, memory, identity and belonging through the language of couture.

Valaya’s approach was not a literal recreation of Siddi clothing or history. Instead, the designer drew from the community’s journey across India and translated its layers of cultural exchange into a collection built around bridal lehengas, saris, anarkalis, sherwanis and bandhgalas.

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The result carried the familiar grandeur of the House of Valaya while allowing the story behind the collection to shape its mood, details and contrasts.

A history translated into couture

The colour palette moved between antique gold, ivory, noir, champagne, sapphire blue, emerald green and earthy neutrals. Zardozi, aari, dori embroidery, metallic threadwork and crystal embellishments added intricate detail across the collection.

The craftsmanship remained central, but the silhouettes kept the focus on movement and proportion. Bridal lehengas shared space with fluid anarkalis and contemporary saris, while the menswear brought together embroidered sherwanis, ornate shawls and structured bandhgalas.

The bridal look with a personal history

One of the standout pieces was a black-and-metallic bridal lehenga featuring an intricate interpretation of Valaya’s Shifting Leaves Chevron motif.

The ensemble was originally created for the designer’s daughter Hoorvi’s wedding. Its couture runway debut added a personal layer to the collection, bringing an heirloom design into a larger conversation around craftsmanship, memory and the continuing life of couture.

Menswear brings structure to the story

The menswear followed the collection’s rich visual language through heavily embroidered sherwanis, layered shawls and sharply tailored bandhgalas.

The pieces carried the ceremonial richness associated with Valaya’s work while retaining a more structured, contemporary shape. The contrast between ornate surface work and precise tailoring gave the menswear its own distinct rhythm within the collection.

Couture with restraint

Despite the elaborate embroidery and luxurious detailing, Siddi was not built around excess alone. The collection worked through the balance between embellishment, geometry, texture and silhouette.

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Jewelled lehengas, embroidered veils and flowing anarkalis brought drama to the womenswear, while the considered use of colour and proportion kept the pieces rooted in a modern couture vocabulary.

The collection also marked the launch of a dedicated high couture bridal space at The World of Valaya, the designer’s flagship boutique at JW Marriott New Delhi Aerocity.

The launch comes ahead of the House of Valaya completing 35 years in 2027.