Original Birkin handbag sells for Rs 86 cr, becomes second most valuable fashion item ever auctioned
Paris: Sketched on an air sickness bag during a flight in the 1980s, the very first Birkin handbag — the prototype for what would become fashion’s most coveted accessory — sold for a staggering €8.6 million (Rs 86 crore) in Paris on Thursday, making it the second most valuable fashion item ever sold at auction.
The winning bid of €7 million (before fees) drew applause from the crowd. The price shattered the previous handbag auction record: $513,040 paid in 2021 for a Hermès White Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Diamond Retourne Kelly 28.
Commissioned exclusively by Hermès for British actor, singer, and fashion icon Jane Birkin in 1984, the black leather prototype now stands in a league of its own. Only one fashion item has ever sold for more: Dorothy’s ruby red slippers from The Wizard of Oz, which fetched $32.5 million in 2024, according to Sotheby’s.
A Bidding War for the "Most Famous Bag of All Time"
Buzz filled the Paris auction room as Sotheby’s opened bidding at €1 million. Within minutes, it soared past €2 million, then €5 million — each leap met with astonished reactions. When the price jumped from €5.5 million to €6 million, the room erupted in whistles and applause.
In the end, a private collector from Japan placed the winning €7 million bid. With fees, the final price totaled €8.6 million. Sotheby’s said nine collectors competed in the 10-minute bidding war via phone, online, and in person. The buyer’s identity was not revealed.
The Birth of a Fashion Icon
The Birkin bag was born of chance. During a Paris-to-London flight in the early ’80s, Birkin struck up a conversation with Hermès chief Jean-Louis Dumas after spilling her belongings on the cabin floor. When she complained that handbags were too small for mothers, Dumas handed her a vomit bag on which she sketched her ideal hold-all.
Hermès later crafted the one-of-a-kind bag, branding it with her initials “J.B.” below the lock. Birkin kept the prototype for nearly a decade before auctioning it in 1994 for AIDS research. It changed hands again in 2000 and had remained in private ownership until now.
Unique Design, Personal Touches
The prototype boasts several distinctive features that set it apart from the commercial Birkins that followed: a non-removable shoulder strap for practical use, a nail clipper attachment (Birkin disliked long painted nails), gilded brass hardware, bottom studs, and other deviations from the typical design. It was based on Hermès’ existing “Haut à Courroies” model.
Morgane Halimi, head of handbags and fashion at Sotheby’s, called it “a singular piece of fashion history” and “the most desirable bag in history.” She added: “It’s incredible to think a bag designed as a practical accessory has become a pop culture icon that signals luxury in the most refined way possible.”
More Than a Bag — A Cultural Phenomenon
Jane Birkin, who died in 2023 at the age of 76, once quipped that her obituary would likely say, “Like the bag.” She added wryly: “Well, it could be worse.”
Sotheby’s echoed the sentiment, declaring: “The Birkin has evolved from a practical accessory to a timeless cultural icon. Its presence spans music, film, television, and the arts. It is a red-carpet staple, a fashion magazine mainstay, and a coveted item in celebrity wardrobes.”
The previous owner, identified only as Catherine B., told reporters, “The bag has all the attributes of a star. The price is the price of the Hermès story.”